발망 2022 F/W 컬렉션.
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2022 F/W 발망 컬렉션은 두 부족이 싸우는 듯한 퍼포먼스로 시작했다. 이는 우크라이나 사태를 떠오르게 했다. 쇼에 앞서 발망의 크리에이티브 디렉터 올리비에 루스테잉은 소셜 미디어에 메시지를 전했다. ‘무거운 마음으로 뉴스를 듣고 있다. 온전히 런웨이에만 집중하는 것이 옳지 않다고 느낀다. 우크라이나를 위해 기도하며, 자유를 위한 그들의 헌신과 존엄에서 영감을 받았다’.
사실 이번 컬렉션의 첫 스케치는 보다 개인적인 이슈에서 시작했다. 잘 알려진 바와 같이 지난 해 올리비에 루스테잉은 화상을 입는 큰 사고를 당했다. 이를 극복하고 성공적으로 발망 하우스에서의 자신의 10주년을 자축하는 컬렉션을 성공적으로 마무리했지만, 이후에도 화상 상처를 가리기 위한 자신의 병적인 집착과 소셜 미디어에 익명의 누군가가 남긴 독기 어린 평가에 대한 커다란 두려움을 느꼈다고 한다. 결국 이에 대응하는 유일한 방법은 정직하게 마주하는 것 뿐이라는 깨달음을 얻었다고.
컬렉션은 약한 것과 강한 것이 조화됐다. 화이트, 크림, 파스텔이 블랙 컬러와 대비되었고, 시폰과 시스루 레이스 같은 섬세한 소재가 메탈, 네오프렌, 가죽, 데님 등의 단단한 소재와 섞였다. 방탄복을 연상케 하는 디테일은 실제로 올리비에 루스테잉이 화상 후 착용한 붕대와 회복을 위해 착용한 장비에서 영감을 얻어서 디자인한 것이다. 이밖에도 고대 병사의 갑옷, 모터스포츠 선수들의 유니폼, 슈퍼히어로의 코스튬까지, 자신을 ‘방어’하기 위한 세상의 모든 디테일이 새롭게 해석됐다.
최신기사
- 프리랜스 에디터
- 명수진
- 사진, 영상
- Courtesy of Balmain